If you’re a collector or a collector wannabe of American folk art maritime antiques, you may fall into several categories: You love nautical paintings and items from self-taught artists who depicted early American life on or near the sea; you’re into idyllic renderings, paintings, and sculpture that promotes a less complicated lifestyle; and/or you savor the clean lines and raw visions that the early colonists saw when they landed in America.

In general, American folk art originated in various regions and typically reflects that region’s culture. “It also was usually produced by unschooled artists who lived in that region—peasants, seamen, country artisans, or members of a social or ethnic group that wished to preserve their traditional culture.” 1

Folk art has been around since the 17th century, but gained prominence during the 1920s. All forms of media were used: oil paintings, watercolors, drawings, and sketches that featured portraits, landscapes, sailing vessels, wall murals and furniture decoration. Then there are carvings, copper and sheet iron weathervanes and whirligigs, hand-carved/painted ships’ figureheads and nautical ornaments—the list is nearly endless.

If you are interested in American folk art maritime antiques, concentrate on objects or subjects that you personally enjoy. From there, think about value. But this gets tricky. Part of the reason is that even renowned folk art collectors and experts have a hard time assigning value, often because it’s difficult finding comparable pieces. Comparison is usually the best way to determine if a piece is valuable, but if it’s a one-of-a-kind piece, then you need to consider its condition, when it was produced and finally, how much you want to own it.

A plethora of American folk art can be found in galleries and online folk art dealers. Most will tell you to try to “visit” the piece, as actually seeing and touching the object helps define its value. If you’re searching online for a piece, try to get a detailed description.  For example, a gorgeous early 1900s hand-made ship in “great” condition was sold to a lover of all things seafaring for $1600. The seller explained in detail about the ship’s components: size, material, lines, pulleys, plus the fact it could operate in the water.

An antique museum quality 19th century sailor whirligig folk art weathervane sold for $875. Was this a good price? Need to compare. This particular item was made of wood substrate, then plastered, sealed and painted. When you’re comparing pieces, check for structural soundness and general age. Actually, as long as the piece is in decent condition, some deterioration adds to its value and look.

Many antique duck decoys are quite cool. Find out where the hand-carved piece came from. A very nice folk art decoy was carved from the wood of a mast of a shipwreck, by artist Charlie MacWilliams, and sold for a mere $535. Many artists used pieces of wood from old ships and carved not only decoys, but other nautical pieces depicting life at sea or regional culture/activities. It’s where the wood came from and the period in which they were produced that make finding and collecting all types of American maritime folk art such an adventure. Enjoy.

- 1 – www.Britannica.com

Antique Model Ship Collectable

The art of ship modeling is almost as old as shipbuilding, going as far back as when we first began traveling by water. Archaeologists have even found ship and boat models from ancient times that depicted that particular culture — from Greece, Europe, Scandinavia, and the Far East.  And, of course, the Americas. From replicas of schooners, gun boats, gondolas, canoes, steam ships, clippers, tug boats, warships, ocean liners and paddle boats, you’ll find the best collectible models are built to scale. Hulls and planking are made from the same materials as their originals—whether it’s wood, plastic, fiberglass or metal. And just as the original ships and boats that carried passengers and cargo are intricate and complex, so too, are the model ships that are found in galleries, museums, and in the homes of model ship collectors.

While many people are interested in antique ship models just for fun or as a hobby, remember that model ship artisans have usually spent an untold number of hours — researching and then actually producing the model. So while collecting those that are vintage hand-made replicas can be lucrative, their condition will determine how much they appreciate in value.

To determine value, check to ensure that the hull is solid, and note the outer detail, such as paint, sails and rigging (if it’s a sailing vessel) and fittings. Common hardware may include nails, small metal hinges, grommets and cotter pins. Always check for the type of paint used, varnish, if applicable, and authenticity of design. You can determine the authenticity of a model by having it appraised at a gallery or specialty shop, many of which are located on the Eastern seaboard, as well as coastal regions in Europe.

One of the wonders of collecting antique ship models is that they’re universal — models from all over the world. Typically mounted on wooden plaques as table or mantle art items, many are also placed in glass cases, which helps keep them intact and in good condition. The ship in a bottle is a fun choice and is well protected inside the bottle.

Classic Ship In A Bottle

But some collectors just want to have fun. And for those enthusiasts, the most “fun” models are wooden pond sailboats, classic racing sloop replicas from the 1920s and 1930s. They actually were used as toys and sailed in the water, usually racing against another model. Just like their original counterparts, if taken out on the water they must be cleaned and dried, and sails and rigging maintained and/or repaired. Ship models are considered an “art form,” so as with any work of art, long-term care is necessary.

Authentic Fishing Floats & Net

Dating back to the late 19th century, glass fishing floats originated in Norway, where fishing was a major industry. Because glass was a cheap commodity and buoyant, they started producing different shapes and sizes, as the earlier ones were quite small—about the size of an egg. After that, floats started being produced in Japan, Korea and Europe, which is why you’ll discover huge differences in the sizes and shapes of unique and oftentimes, rare, floats.

So to profit from an antique fishing nets and floats collection, do your homework.

To find authentic fishing nets and floats, try exploring the western coastline beaches of Washington and Oregon. If the tides are right, you might also find them along the gulf-side coasts of Florida, Alabama and Louisiana. There’s a plethora of information on the Web and at many coastal antique/nautical stores. And talk to your local museum docents. Experts there are only too happy to expound on the lore and history behind these beautiful relics.

You’ll find the glass floats and original netting to be the most authentic, and usually in only fair condition. After around 1920, floats started being replaced by cork, aluminum and plastic. And commercial-grade netting later on was nylon. This doesn’t mean they’re less valuable, but gives you an idea of when they originated. There also are high quality floats and netting that were produced in the 40s and 50s, but after that, most were made only to be sold in gift shops. Still beautiful, but not as widely viewed in terms of a collectible.

Antique Floats Signature

To help determine the value, again, think of the material used and when it was produced historically. Authentic glass floats were used for fishing. They typically are heavier glass and were produced in shades of green, clear, amber and blue. Most rare are those made in red or cranberry and other gem-like colors. Unfortunately, these are difficult finds because of their age, but beautifully crafted replicas are available. What’s termed contemporary glass floats also are heavy glass, but weren’t used for fishing. Also look for “hot marks,” or signatures that identified the glass factory that produced them. You’ll find signatures on most authentic and contemporary glass floats.

Another way to determine value is to check the netting. Netting colors vary, but most were made from shades of brown or black and hand-tied. If original, you will see some damage, but value is somewhat maintained if the netting is clean and odor-free.

Having accurate information is key to becoming a knowledgeable collector, someone who not only may profit, but who finds fulfillment from an engaging and fun activity.

While artifacts called scrimshaw have been found dating back several thousands of years, the majority of original scrimshaw as we know it, was created in the 19th century to the present. Scrimshaw is the art of carving designs into whale bone and teeth. We don’t really know where the term came from, but as an art form, scrimshaw is most noted for its historical significance—born during the advent of whaling by sailors who had time on their hands and whose imaginations captured the essence of the era.

A Classic Scrimshaw

Some scrimshanders, (scrimshaw artists) signed their work, but most scrimshaw is anonymous. The level of detail and artistry varies greatly, as the handiwork of scrimshanders could, at best, be rather rough, since they were using old sailing needles to engrave or carve pictures and lettering while being tossed around on high seas. Later artists began using finer tools, and even started using ink to highlight the carvings/images.

Original scrimshaw is just that: carvings on whale teeth, usually sperm whales and usually depicting a nautical or wildlife theme.

Sperm Whale Tooth Scrimshaw

Original scrimshaw can also be found on ivory from walrus and elephant tusks. Most of these originals are in museums, as examples of our whaling and hunting heritage. The value of scrimshaw varies, but because whale teeth and bones could also be used as tools, you’ll find scrimshaw on knife handles, kitchen utensils and ornamental pieces—collectors’ items that are valuable not only for their form but for their function, as well. In fact, one of the most famous scrimshaw collectors was President John F. Kennedy, whose collection was displayed in the Oval Office of the White House.

Ivory scrimshaw was used in creating jewelry and as furniture and clock ornamentation. Reproductions of “original” scrimshaw designs are created by today’s artists on various media, such as on belt buckles and buttons, necklaces and bracelets. These are typically housed in brass, the insert engraved on ivory: ships and nautical notables are often the subject, although nature and animals are popular subjects, too.

The artist carving a scrimshaw will utilize what animal bones are at hand, such as an antler, bison, and coyote bones. Indian ink is added to highlight and bring out the detail in these works-of-art.

Scrimshaw On Bone

Scrimshaw pieces not found in museums can often be found at estate sales, auctions and galleries—in the form of art, jewelry, accessories and sculptures. Presently, only artists and collectors should consider using or buying scrimshaw that was made using “legal” whale teeth and mammal tusks/ivory, as hunting these mammals has been prohibited since the 1980s and 1970s, respectively. It’s important to work with reputable dealers and other knowledgeable collectors if you’re planning to invest, as a fake scrimshaw piece is detectable by the experienced collector.

Today, scrimshanders spend anywhere from 30 to 900 hours per piece, because of the detail necessary to exact an image. The beauty of scrimshaw is not simply an art form that collectors can benefit from financially, but it’s an art form reminding all of us of our past—and that’s just priceless.

If the lure of the sea is in your blood and you’ve started collecting some of your favorite nautical items, and if your treasures are in good condition and good working order, then let’s presume you’d like to keep them that way.

Here are some general ideas to help you take action in preserving antiques and your maritime collectables.

Russian Chronometer Antique Box Offers Protection

The Russian Chronometer Antique Box offers protection to the chronometer instrument, but do not overlook the care needed for this valuable antique box. The wood and fittings in this antique box needs TLC, too! Having the instrument enclosed in it’s original antique box makes this maritime collectable for more valuable.

When preserving your treasures, know that exposure to light, air, temperature and humidity can take its toll.

For such items as brass lights, lanterns and ships’ instruments — anything brass — determine if it’s raw solid brass or brass plated and lacquered. For raw brass, washing in a mild solution of dish soap and warm water will eliminate oily residue from handling. If there are spots or the finish is dull in sections, use a good metal polish and then clean with the mild solution, rinse and towel dry. If your item is brass plated, it probably also has a coat of lacquer on it to prevent deterioration. If the item looks worn, carefully remove the lacquer, apply a good metal polish and wipe with a clean cloth. Reapply lacquer on brass plated items, as plating alone deteriorates quickly.

Wood collections are most at risk if they are subjected to high humidity. The more “temperate” the environment, the better, as high humidity or extreme dryness will cause warping and splitting, neither of which is an easy fix and usually requires professional restoration. It’s advised that you limit the amount of light your treasure is subjected to, as light damage is irreversible. According to an excerpt from Laura Kubick’s book, Caring for Wood Art, 50 lux or less is best for colored woods and dyed woods, and 50-150 lux is safe for less sensitive woods, like hard woods used on ships’ wheels, propellers, some ship models, etc. She also suggests keeping your wooden treasures away from fireplaces and areas of extreme heat and cold. Keep the piece dusted, using a soft bristle brush; you can also wipe wooden objects with a damp cloth, and then dry it with a lint-free towel.

Antique charts and maps are in vogue for collectors who enjoy the visuals of seafaring journeys and explorations of the past. Paintings and lithographs of famous ships are another trend for the visually-inclined.

Hand-Drawn Antique Nautical Map

Preserving priceless items and collectables is not difficult, but consider the following:

• Avoid over handling, especially charts and maps, as paper is vulnerable. Use gloves.
• Do not expose to sunlight for long periods of time. Too much sunlight will cause the piece to become brittle or discolored.
• Keep the item in a temperate environment. Avoid placing in attics and basements, which causes discoloration and mold.
• Find out if the work should be placed behind glass or simply matted and framed. Matting can support the artwork, but must be acid-free. Seek out knowledgeable framers.

Enjoy your treasures and keep them safe. Watch for changes in condition and then act accordingly.

Imagine the ship’s captain navigating in the middle of the ocean back in the 1700s. Using his sextant, in combination with a compass, he would measure the angle of a celestial object to a point on the horizon, check the time the coordinate was taken, and set his course. More than 300 years ago, he could determine exactly where the ship was and where it was headed because of the precise, and now classic navigational tool—the sextant.

Sextant In Use On The Map

If you’re an aficionado of this cool navigational tool and know the history of it, then you likely know that while many are collectors’ items, sextants are still used to navigate across the Great Lakes and oceans and the high seas.

Whether you’re a collector or navigator, you’ll like the fact that sextants are available in a range of finishes and sizes. High gloss solid brass and bronze finishes dominate the market, but you can also find sextants in polished enamel, usually black, and aluminum.  To determine the instrument’s condition, check the sextant’s mirrors and handles, ensuring they’re in good working order. The frames should all be solid with no missing parts, such as screws and fittings. If the sextant has been used, especially in saltwater navigation, pitting or corrosion may have occurred. This doesn’t always detract from the quality of the piece, but it may affect the appreciation or value.

Classic Antique Sextant

Most quality sextants are housed in their own travel case, which are usually made out of fine woods like mahogany and rosewood, or leather and metal. Leather and cloth pouches may also be included with the case, or come separate. Look for travel cases with handles, either brass or wood, and that come with their own set of keys. The condition of the case may indicate the value of the instrument, but not always.

You may want to consider “collector quality” sextants. These are usually graded, or rated depending on the quality, craftsmanship, age, and condition of the piece. Antique dealers specializing in nautical antiques, such as Cuttysark, Hyland Granby or online experts, are often available to answer questions or provide appraisals. They also can help locate quality antique sextants that meet your specifications.

Depending on how rare or antique the sextant is, many have certificates of authenticity; however, even those without their papers can be tested for age. Many instruments have dates or serial numbers engraved. Frankly, without a date or serial number, even with accurate testing the margin of error can be nearly 20 years.

The issue of authenticity shouldn’t detract from the beauty and intricacy of these timeless nautical instruments. Whether they’re the “genuine” article or a reproduction, sextants remain in vogue—either as a collection item or for personal use on the high seas.

When Christopher Columbus left Spain, his goal was to sail across the vast Atlantic to reach what he thought would be Asia. As we all know, he bumped into America instead. It’s surmised he did indeed use a compass, along with a sundial compass and an early device similar to a sextant, but because his compass pointed to magnetic north, not true north, and he used the “sextant” only to measure the angle to an object with little attention paid to the horizon, it’s amazing he ran into anything at all.

Antique Compass

There are two basic types of compasses: the magnetic compass, which points to magnetic north and south, and the gyro compass, with a spinning wheel/needle that rotates according to the earth’s rotation, directing us to true north and south. When collecting compasses, know which is which and enjoy them for their past usefulness as well as how they’re used today.

Antique compasses always have a story. While most are reproductions representing the types of compasses used in the mid-1700s or earlier, these replicas make great collector items and nautical gifts for the seafaring enthusiast. They come in a variety of models and sizes, but most prized are those made of solid brass. While small solid brass compasses are rare, you’ll find some good ones made in India and China. They’re usually made of a heavier gauge stock and are highly polished. Pocket watch compasses are nice collectibles and can be used anywhere. There are desk compasses, with working needles, and these, too, make for great gifts.

Old Compass

From sundial compasses with nautical working features to compasses used for surveying and engineering purposes, you’ll find a wide selection of solid brass antique reproductions. You’ll also find vintage compasses in notable antique shops and online galleries specializing in maritime instruments. Many of these compasses haven’t been restored and can be purchased “as is,” in all their wear and tear glory. And some have been painted, but you’ll usually discover solid brass under the old paint. Look for compasses that are still in working order, and check that that you can calibrate them, needles are in working order, etc.

Antique Compasses Collection

Compasses range in size from two-inch models in cases or placed inside high-end wooden boxes, to full size floor models, called binnacles. There are some wonderful, although somewhat difficult finds, of compasses used during WWII—used on lifeboats and warships, originals going as far back as the mid-1800s. Most of these aren’t solid brass, but instead constructed of copper.  Because of their historical significance and authenticity, these originals can be pricey, but well worth it from a collectors’ vantage.

Steering a large sailing vessel is no easy task. And it was likely more difficult three hundred years ago, sans hydraulics, when the helmsmen had to operate the wheel to match the motion of the tiller. Underestimating the time it took to turn a ship, and trust me, these old ships didn’t turn on a dime, meant risking grounding the ship or worse, being dashed against coastal rocks on the shore. Ships wheels are historically interesting and a valuable maritime antique for collectors.

Antique Ships Wheel

Helmsmen were one of the most important members of the crew. And the ship’s wheel, sometimes enclosed in the cabin but often out in the elements, had to be well maintained, both in terms of operating and in overall condition. Wheel designs were works of art and beautiful reproductions are available, depicting the era in which they were used. From classic yacht wheels to old sailboats used for exploration and fishing, each wheel carries its own story.

Most authentic wheels have at one time been on ships. Made of mahogany or teak, solid brass or iron hubs with hand-carved spokes, these beauties range in size from 60-inches (often used on paddle boats) to 18-inches, used on smaller sailing yachts. Some include chrome and roping; some are painted, most still have their original varnish or lacquer. You’ll find original wheels in salvage yards or online, and they can cost upwards of $2,000. Perfect for using on your own boat, or collecting them as part of your nautical collection, reproductions can also be found. There’s a plethora of finely-crafted replicas at auctions, online galleries and in “salty” nautical stores everywhere.

Antique Porthole

And when “down below,” as they say in sailor speak, portholes were/are a godsend — small windows with watertight glass or metal that open and close as needed. Again, original portholes taken off old ships can be located in salvage yards and shops along the coasts that specialize in original seafaring items. Brass and aluminum portholes are plentiful, but you’ll find many different styles and sizes, including those with intricate nuts and bolts used to “batten down the hatches.”

Both ships’ wheels and portholes are used in window and furniture design. Fashioning a wheel over a cylindrical base, and then covered with glass or pieces of metal makes a great table and conversation piece. These items are often used in nautical-themed restaurants or for the collector who wants to adorn a room in the home. Both show well when mounted on walls as a grouping or as a standalone in a special section of home or office.

For those of you who imagine yourself behind the wheel of a ship, pipe in hand and sailing the high seas, or down below with the fresh salty air blowing in through the port, it may be time to start thinking of adding these ships’ accessories to your collection.

Ships Antique Copper Lantern

Ships’ lanterns of yore were used outside as deck lights at night mainly to let other vessels know where they were in the water and where they were heading to avoid collisions with other ships. Red lights were on the portside; green lights were starboard. Because of their “salty” environment, the lamps often had to be replaced or restored, due to corrosion. In fact, ships that were “retired” were usually torn down; their components basically tossed in shipwrecking yards. While you can certainly visit some of these old shipyards and poke through the tools and parts yourself, it might be easier to check out the vast array of authentic and restored lanterns online, at estate sales or at your favorite nautical shop/gallery. They’re still valuable, and they’re still very much sought after—not only as collectibles, but because antique lanterns still have a place on boats and in our homes and offices.

Galvanized, brass and copper lanterns are the most popular, but according to the savvy maritime collectors, copper and brass lanterns are more difficult to find. So if YOU find one of these and are planning to start a collection, grab it. Occasionally you can find pewter lanterns, although it seems most were used as table lamps. Still fun and still useful.

Styles and sizes vary, and many have been modernized or retrofitted to use in one’s home or office, as earlier models were typically oil lanterns. Oil lanterns are still used—great for the outdoors and camping trips, although usually the wicks need periodic replacing. One interesting design is called the onion lantern, used in America on fishing boats. Their design protected the flame from the wind, so were ideal to use outside on ships as “working lights.” Other styles include hanging lights, which swing back and forth, and post lanterns, which can be installed on walls. Round, square, octagonal—all shapes are indicative of the period and in how they were originally used.

Antique Lantern Used To Hang From The Ships Mast

Current uses for lanterns are in nautical-themed restaurants as well as in hallways and lobbies of commercial buildings. And anyone who loves to sail or loves the idea of sailing may want an original or fine-quality reproduction in their den, study or office. They’re ideal for hallway lighting, especially down to the lower “galley” or basement.

Depending on the age of the lantern, you should check out the glass or “lens.” If cracked, get it restored. Nautical restoration companies typically carry replacement glass, so you can still maintain its integrity and usefulness.

It’s always fun to discover the history of the lantern(s) you’re buying. Finding out about how it was originally used, its original state, what kind of ship it came from and how it’s been restored, is all a part of the journey. As a collector, or just someone who enjoys the maritime ambiance in your home, either to use or to display, antique ships’ lanterns are a nice item to light the way.

If the lure of the sea is in your blood and you’ve started collecting some of your favorite nautical items, and if your treasures are in good condition and good working order, then let’s presume you’d like to keep them that way.

When preserving your treasures, know that exposure to light, air, temperature and humidity can take its toll. Here are some general ideas to help preserve your maritime goods.

For such items as brass lights, lanterns and ships’ instruments—anything brass—determine if it’s raw solid brass or brass plated and lacquered. For raw brass, washing in a mild solution of dish soap and warm water will eliminate oily residue from handling. If there are spots or the finish is dull in sections, use a good metal polish and then clean with the mild solution, rinse and towel dry. If your item is brass plated, it probably also has a coat of lacquer on it to prevent deterioration. If the item looks worn, carefully remove the lacquer, apply a good metal polish and wipe with a clean cloth. Reapply lacquer on brass plated items, as plating alone deteriorates quickly.

Wood collections are most at risk if they are subjected to high humidity. The more “temperate” the environment, the better, as high humidity or extreme dryness will cause warping and splitting, neither of which is an easy fix and usually requires professional restoration. It’s advised that you limit the amount of light your treasure is subjected to, as light damage is irreversible. According to an excerpt from Laura Kubick’s book, Caring for Wood Art, 50 lux or less is best for colored woods and dyed woods, and 50-150 lux is safe for less sensitive woods, like hard woods used on ships’ wheels, propellers, some ship models, etc. She also suggests keeping your wooden treasures away from fireplaces and areas of extreme heat and cold. Keep the piece dusted, using a soft bristle brush; you can also wipe wooden objects with a damp cloth, and then dry it with a lint-free towel.

Antique charts and maps are in vogue for collectors who enjoy the visuals of seafaring journeys and explorations of the past. Paintings and lithographs of famous ships are another trend for the visually-inclined. Preserving these priceless items is not difficult, but consider the following:

• Avoid over handling, especially charts and maps, as paper is vulnerable. Use gloves.
• Do not expose to sunlight for long periods of time. Too much sunlight will cause the piece to become brittle or discolored.
• Keep the item in a temperate environment. Avoid placing in attics and basements, which causes discoloration and mold.
• Find out if the work should be placed behind glass or simply matted and framed. Matting can support the artwork, but must be acid-free. Seek out knowledgeable framers.

Enjoy your treasures and keep them safe. Watch for changes in condition and then act accordingly.